As it's risen in popularity, mezcal is usually described to newcomers as tequila's smoky cousin. Of course, there's a lot more to the spirit than just that—and we caught up with Gaston Martinez, founder of IZO Mezcal, to learn more.
Gaston was born and raised in Durango, Mexico, where mezcal has a storied history—we're talking centuries long. It used to be a sort of outlawed spirit, much like moonshine in the American South. When mezcal came to the United States, it did so with a little kitsch, and Gaston wanted to prove it could be sophisticated, elegant, and chic. So, he created IZO. When we caught up on the phone, he debunked more myths and shared more intel.
Traditionalists spell mezcal like it's pronounced.
That's m-e-s-c-a-l. (In Spanish, z's sound like s's.)
It's made from a plant you'll recognize.
Mezcal is a distilled spirit derived from the agave plant, which is also how we get tequila. In short, you can blame agave for endless fun nights, and all the drunken texts you never meant to send. There are more than 200 types of agave plants, 45 to 50 of which are used to make mezcal, Gaston says. IZO is made with only wild agave, which tends to have a much stronger flavor. (Think of it like the farmers market version of produce, versus what you get at the grocery store.)
Tequila is a type of mezcal.
Many people assume it's the other way around, but that's not so. The word "mezcal" literally means "roasted agave," Gaston says. So, tequila is a type of mezcal, since any spirit made from agave is classified as such.
What is the difference between tequila and mezcal?
If you're looking to impress someone at the bar, memorize these facts:
1. They're produced in different regions.
Just like real champagne can only come from Champagne, France, and legit scotch is only made in Scotland, tequila and mezcal have regional distinctions. Oaxaca makes more than 90 percent of the world's mezcal supply; Durango is also famous for its mezcal production.
Meanwhile, Jalisco is the epicenter of tequila production. "The tequila region, when they understood [mezcal's popularity], they were like, Let's make our own little thing here," Gaston says.
2. They're made from different varieties of agave.
As mentioned, mezcal can be made from at least 40 types of agave plant. As such, it can be a blend of two different varieties of the plant, too—similar to a blend of different wine grapes. Tequila can only come from blue agave, or agave tequilana.
3. They're distilled differently.
The agave for tequila is steamed in ovens that are above ground, while mezcal producers use in-ground fire pits filled with wood and charcoal.
All the above distinctions are why mezcals generally have a better chance of tasting multi-dimensional, says Gaston. Yep, they're a bit more interesting and offer more variety than tequila.
Mezcal doesn't have to taste like smoke.
Some bartenders feel the descriptor undercuts the spirit: Mezcal can taste a little charred because of the way it's produced, but you might also find some with floral, fruity, or earthy notes. A lot of it comes down to the specific agave—where it is, what variety it is, and when and how it was harvested.
Espadin mezcals are for beginners; then, graduate to tobalà.
Espadin agave is one of the most prevalent species of the plant, making it the most popular source of mezcal. Since it's so widespread, the taste can vary wildly from bottle to bottle. Tobalà is referred to as "the king of mezcals" because the agave plant is more scarce and harder to harvest. Read: That stuff's expensive.
Mezcal has been having a moment.
Mezcal sales doubled in the first half of the 2010s. The obsession is even boosting Oaxaca's economy, as investors and fans are flocking to the state.
The spirit is so popular, people are opening up bars dedicated to the stuff.
Mezcalito in San Francisco has more than 100 different bottles, which you can taste on their own in a flight or in a handful of cocktails. In New York City, Casa Mezcal has three levels of bar space, each designed to evoke Oaxaca in the Big Apple.
You can't buy flavored mezcal.
The spirit isn't like vodka. it's not bottled to taste like pumpkin pie or strawberries. If you want it to taste differently, you'll need to mix it into a cocktail. (Or go to a mezcal bar, and have someone do it for you.)
One tequila brand is smoking its liquor to compete with mezcal.
Maestro Dobel Tequila, an 11th generation distillery, launched Humito, a smoked silver tequila. The genius behind the bottle says it's a riff on old-school tequila production, when they used to cook agave with mesquite wood.
Forget everything you've heard about the worm in the bottle.
For starters, it's not even a worm, it's a larva—and it's a giant gimmick. Larvae really do find their way into agave plants (and therefore the spirits produced from them), but many American bars add the little guys to bottles just to boost sales. They're not a requirement or indication of good mezcal; if anything, they should deter you. As for the larvae's hallucinatory powers? That's complete folklore.
Again, Gaston's mission with IZO was to stray from the gimmicky mezcals and bring something sophisticated to the U.S. And every bottle comes with a unique one-of-a-kind stopper. Pretty cool!
Sarah Weinberg is the deputy editor at Delish and has covered food, travel, home, and lifestyle for a number of publications, including Food Network Magazine and Country Living. She's originally from the Bay Area, has an unhealthy affinity for the Real Housewives of Anywhere, and harbors strong feelings about fruit salad.
