Mastering this classic Mexican staple takes a little bit of time, a lot of pork fat and a few helpful hints.
Soak your beans the easy way.
Dried bean purists will always object to skipping an overnight soak but the honest truth is there’s a better (and faster) way! Soaking the beans in hot water for an hour will yield an identical result to an overnight soak. In a large saucepan, add the beans and cover with water by at least 2 inches. Cover with a lid and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from heat and leave to soak for 1 hour. If you happen to have the time and desire for the most traditional method, soaking your beans overnight will still yield tasty results. Cover the pinto beans with water by at least two inches and let sit at room temperature overnight or for at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse the beans.
Speedy method: canned beans
If you’re really pressed for time, canned pinto beans are a great alternative! Drain and rinse 2 cans of pinto beans. In a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, render the fatback until soft and translucent, reduce your heat to medium-low and continue to the “fry the beans” step. Since you won’t have any cooking liquid to mash the beans with, use vegetable stock or chicken stock.
Stick to small cuts.
The bean will get most of their flavor from the cooking liquid. To get as much flavor as possible and to mash to easier to mash the beans, dice the onion, guajillo chile and fatback in very small pieces before adding to the beans.
Season as you go.
Choosing when to salt the beans is also an intense point of debate in dried bean cooking. Adding salt during the soaking process will toughen the beans and require a longer cooking time to reach the desired texture. Season the beans right before cooking, when adding the aromatics. Add half the seasoning mix to start and so that you are able to adjust once the cooking liquid has reduced. Fatback, which is a solid layer of fat from the back section of a pig, often comes with a layer of salt on the exterior. It’s usually hanging out with the pork or other cured meats in the grocery store. To have better control over how much salt you’re adding, be sure to rinse the fatback and pat it dry before dicing. Since fatback is a hard fat, it takes a while to soften enough to mash with the pinto beans. If you plan on using the canned bean method, skip the fatback and add small diced bacon to your skillet about 3 minutes before adding the onion and jalapeno.
- Yields:
- 4 serving(s)
- Prep Time:
- 45 mins
- Total Time:
- 3 hrs
Ingredients
- 1 c.
dried pinto beans, rinsed and picked through
- 1/2 tsp.
oregano (Mexican preferred)
- 1/2 tsp.
paprika
- 1/2 tsp.
chili powder
- 1/2 tsp.
cumin
- 1 1/2 tsp.
kosher salt
- 1
medium yellow onion, finely diced, divided
- 1
guajillo chile, seeded, finely diced (optional)
- 3 oz.
fatback, rinsed, diced small (optional)
- 1/3 c.
lard or neutral oil
- 1
jalapeño, seeded, diced
- 3
cloves of garlic, minced
Lime
Cilantro
Queso Fresco
Directions
Cook beans:
- Step 1In a heavy bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven, add the beans and cover with water by at least 2 inches. Cover with a lid and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from heat and leave to soak for 1 hour.
- Step 2Combine the oregano, paprika, cumin, salt, and chili powder in a small bowl.
- Step 3Add 1/2 the onion, ancho chile, pork, and 1/2 the spice mix to the beans and their soaking liquid, adding more water to cover if necessary. Bring the water to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Simmer the beans, uncovered for 1 1/2 hours. If necessary, add boiling water to keep the beans covered. Taste the beans to check for doneness and adjust salt. If the beans are not tender, continue to cook for an additional 30 minutes. Some liquid should remain in the pot when the beans are done, reserve 1 cup.
Fry beans:
- Step 1In a cast-iron skillet, heat lard over medium-low heat. Add the remaining onion and jalapeno and cook until softened, 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the cooked beans, remaining spice mix and 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid to the skillet. Cook beans for 3 minutes and mash with a potato masher until all beans are mashed and the mixture resembles a thick paste. Add a little more of the cooking liquid and continue mashing until beans are thick and smooth but not soupy and no whole beans are left. You may not need all of the liquid.
- Step 2For super smooth beans, spoon the mashed beans into a blender or food processor and blend until you reach the desired consistency, thinning with the cooking liquid if necessary.
- Step 3Finish with a squeeze of lime juice, chopped cilantro and queso fresco!
To give this recipe a Mediterranean-inspired spin, sub in cannelini beans and use pancetta, onion, garlic, sun-dried tomato, rosemary, lemon, and red pepper flakes. For Caribbean-style refried black beans, use smoked ham hock, curry powder, onion, garlic, thyme, scotch bonnet, and lime.